Marcanada

ACCOMPLISHED

Becoming 50 is one of those things in life that somehow has more meaning to it, than becoming say 47 or 62. At least that is how I was feeling about it years ago, when I was looking forward into the future and was thinking what to do at that particular moment in my life. OK, there are more than enough philosophical theories and beliefs that 50 is like the watershed or great divide in one's life, but that had not been my particular belief at the time. Yet at the same time I felt it to be a very good moment or phase in my existence to lean back and reflect at least on what to do with the rest of my life.
Couple that with the possibility of saving enough days off through the labour agreement my sector has in the Netherlands to arrange a sabbatical leave and the fact that since high school I have wanted to make a large journey into an unknown country, then you might understand that I opted for a voyage through Canada the last 6 months. Since I do not have a drivers license - cars are polluting you know - and hence no car, have been a long distance runner for the last 14 years with a personal best of 3.52 on the marathon ( so I am not your ultra fit fast type), once did a 75 mile cross country run/walk in the south of England which left me zen-like memories and am not afraid to sweat a bit, I decided that I wanted to do some serious walking.
Years ago I read a book in which the main character did a 1500 km walk in japan along a very famous route, visiting the main Shinto temples along its way. The idea struck me as a very interesting one at the time and I even started to learn Japanese. In the end my work and especially the 60-70 hours workweeks due to 3 major mergers my company went through at the time, prohibited me to really learn enough of the language to feel at ease. I belief that doing an extended visit to Japan without a proper knowledge of the language, is a bad idea. So I had to figure out another long walk that was both sensible and fun. In the end I reverted to a childhood fantasy and that was Canada. At the age of 9-10 I wanted to become a woodcutter in Canada. Do not ask where that came from, but it got stuck in mind somehow at the time and when reflecting on a worthy goal it suddenly became my preferred option. In essence it is the idea of crossing a continent, seeing lots of different scenery, the wildlife and the woods, the prairies, all of it. The language is predominantly English, although I can manage French as well. So crossing Canada on foot was going to be my sabbatical destination. So for the last 3 years I looked at maps, figured out possible dangers and how to deal with them, looked at alternative scenarios, tried to convince all my relatives and friends that I was not insane - by far the hardest task that one - and in general prepared myself emotionally and mentally as well as I could.

Did I need a sabbatical at this particular phase in my life and what did I hope to find out? Well both questions amount to the same thing in my feelings; not so much the 50 year mark, as the knowledge that I was not entirely happy in my life, let's say disappointed and slightly weary of the life I was leading at the time. Working as a procurement officer at Atradius - a credit insurance company - for the last 7 years, whilst in origin having studies psychology says something about the strange choices I have made in my life. Not all of those choices were the best and as rewarding as they should have been. Being loved for 30 years by the same man without having the same mutuality to that feeling also did not help. Guilt and insecurity then become part of the everyday emotions.Not having been alone in 50 years was also something that bothered me. Who was I really? What drives me and what do I really want to achieve. Questions that are very hard to answer when I am leading my everyday life. I lost the joie de vivre feeling almost completely and lost friends and loved ones almost as well. So the need for a refreshment of the spirit was urgent. I simply had to figure out in my own time and terms what I am and what makes me tick. If in that process I could also find out why I need to always outdo myself, set myself goals and targets that are at the outer limits of my capacities and thus tax me heavily. And although by reaching those targets or limits, it never felt as gratifying or fulfilling as it should. I know of course that most of that drive stems from my parents, especially my mother. "You shall make or family name proud", or sayings along those lines.

The voyage itself was incredible. I have seen the largest part of Canada, half of it walking -2400 km, the other half 2600 km on a bicycle. I have slept mostly in motels and B&B's. Ate Asian food 1 out of 3 times and spend much more than expected. That part is irrelevant to me, but I mention it because how detailed and encompassing you think you planned the trip, some things will turn out differently. There is no favourite place, but some were so good to me that I will mention them. Approaching Quebec and looking at Château Frontenac from the Lievis side was very emotional. My first goal and I really had goose bumps. Perth was lovely and I had the feeling there is a certain goodness and kindness to it, which almost seems to emanate out of the place. Osoyoos in BC was friendly and warm, like a balm on my hart. The prairies are amazing, especially when the flax fields are in bloom. It is as if you are travelling through a lilac sea. The cote des artisans in Quebec with the woodcutting galleries and statues. The view from the mountain on the city in Montreal was stunning and simply beautiful. The rockies seen from the train travelling back to Toronto. Awe inspiring of course, but fantastic as well. I probably forget some now, but almost every day there was something that caught my attention and made me realise how much beauty there is in the world.

Canadians I feel are very warm, friendly and open people. I have met quite some people along the way and did not have a negative encounter at all. I was supported with good advice, warnings, helped when necessary, given food and drinks, had questions answered that I did not put, but that were in my mind anyhow and in general was treated with respect and kindness. Normal things for me to do, but this was the first time in my life that I was on the receiving end in that quantity. Very gratifying and warm. Sometimes I even was given advice that came into being a couple of days later. Strange that, people saying something and then being in a situation where that comes into play. I taught me that I am not such a "bad" person at all. OK, I can be grumpy, keep a distance unnecessary, show too little interest in people and do not make clear enough to those I love that I do so, am afraid of loosing my loved ones and in that fear built up walls around me, say nasty things when in anger and hurt people where I could support them. But I am not so bad as a human being and I know that I can change my behaviour. A well learnt lesson on my trip, perhaps the most important one.

Travelling back by train in a luxury compartment with my love was a great thing as well. We had a couple of days in Vancouver to do some sight seeing, get used to each other again after 6 months of solitude and see parts of the country that are different from what I did on the way east to west, because then I stuck to the southern most roads. He was of course mightily impressed with it, realising in the flesh what distances I travelled. Saw a young black bear from the train, the first one. Flora and fauna have also been one of the real pleasures during my voyage. Especially the different types of flowers and trees were very interesting and often beautiful to look at. Butterflies and cicadas in the prairies. Bugs and birds in unimaginable numbers. Deer alive and dead along the road side. The science museum in Sudbury, the fireworks on National Day, the space museum in Vancouver where I crashed the space shuttle three times in the flight simulator. So many memories now, I do not know which will remain, but it was worth every damn centimetre of it. I am not proud of myself you know, but I have a definite feeling of accomplishment. I succeeded in doing what I set out to do.
I filled a small bottle with Atlantic sea water and carrying it across Canada, emptied it in the Pacific ocean. Now that is what I planned to do and I managed to carry water to the sea. Cute eh?

Well this is going to be one of my last posts dealing with my voyage through Canada. Am happy now and very relaxed and sights seeing with Mart. The only problem is that he is not used to walk those distances - I want to do everything on foot, as you can imagine - and the poor dear is really suffering from all that physical exertion. But, vancouver really is beautiful and worthwhile to see on foot, because people and environment make the city you know. We have done most of the city by now, have walked in Stanley Park and did the “waterceremony' meaning I emptied part of the small bottle with Atlantic seawater in the ocean and filled another botlle with Pacific ocean water. Those will find their place somewhere at home as a silent reminder of the journey.

Being together again with him by the way is very pleasant and it doesn't feel at all as if we have not seen each other for nearly 6 months, a thing we do not stop discussing at wondering about. Ok, we had a very regular contact by phone and kept each other abreast of developments, but still you know, 6 months is a long time. So suddenly he is ther on the airport, looking a bit grumpy afetr such a long flight and being in a different time zone - 9 hours later - and he wasn't really looking forward to a normal meal, but still joined me. So he ate a warm meal at 5 in the morning his time......After a good nights sleep, me reading a book in a pub, we gradually managed to align our patterns the days after and are now an a par. Looking forward to get into the transcanada train journey and then head towards home. Yeah, I feel like I want to get home and settle down again and start every day life again.

A couple of observations though, that happened in the last days.

• it is said that the great divide, meaning the mountain range from Alaska to Mexico, is so called because all rivers west of it will flow towards the Pacific and all east towards the great lakes and Atlantic ocean. Why then have I seen at least 2 rivers flowing east - the Similcameen and Wolfe Creek - who should be flowing the other way?
• vancouverians complain about the summer, cold, wet and nothing to enjoy at all. Seems that they had the same problem as we did in Holland, if i can believe Mart because it was not good ther as well. Actually the best week they had around here, was when I arrived. Hmm, cannot say that I complain about it. The weather now is wet and cold again, but nothing that a good umbrella can deal with....
• Chinatown around here is great and the stuff they sell in the market streets is really amazing. Big piles and baskets of food stuff - assuming that is what is in it - with just the chinese description, so I haven't got the foggiest idea what is being sold. Live seacreatures in tanks, roasted ducks, whole bbq-ed pigs, any kind of ginger and mushroom. Weird and so inviting to do some cooking with it, but hey no chance to do so. too bloody bad.
• Trees in Stanley Park; huge huge huge. Staring up you get a kind of vertigo and start to feel queasy. But they are also very vulnerable, large parks of the west side facing the ocean have been ripped apart by the december storms last year and cleaning up is still being done. Soem of the pine - fir trees, have these shallow but widespread roots, so they get hit the hardest with the huriicane force storms they have had.
• Vertigo, crossing bridges and looking down, I really get scared. It takes some hard tongue biting focus, to go on. Looking down into rivers, canyons 60 meters below, does make me very uncomfortable.
• vancouverians do think that because it is summer, you should dress like it. So even with low temperatures, cold breezes, rain and other shit, they walk around in shorts, short sleeved shirts and look around with an air as if they are in Hawaii. Ok, guys you are tough. My compliments.
• a lot of beggars around here as well, the first I have seen in a very long time. Most of them very friendly and polite. One yesterday when I refused to donate money, shouted “ ah, piss off you stupid faggot“. obviously the execption to the rule. I replied, well you are alone and will freeze to dead old man. Not nice, but he had it coming.
• After chinese, indian, malaysian and singaporese tonight we are going to try to eat something non-asian. Will be hard I tell you. Suddenly realised today that I haven't eaten cooked potatoed now for 6 months. That will be a delight I tell ye!

OK, I am there have done it and proved to myself that I am without a doubt a STOB of purest blood. STOB of course standing for skinny, tough old bastard. Last day into Vancouver was a bit strange. Heading down highway 1 which was an incredible noisy, smelly and sometimes dangerous affair, I didn't really see where I was. At a point I decided to get off the highway to orient myself, because it was very unclear where exactly I was. Soon I found out that I was very near downtown Vancouver, so had crossed the city border without being aware of it! Found with the kind help of a lady cyclist the motel I was aiming for, settled down and have since then - 3 days ago - been discovering the town. Have found the perfect spot for the water ceremony - emptying a small bottle with Atlantic seawater - and have tried to sell all the gear that I do not need anymore. The bike has gone - farewell very faithful, reliable friend - and have given the buggy and camping gear into consignment. Also put an announcement on www.craigslist.org and see if that is going to be successful. Mart will be flying over coming Sunday and we will staying in town for a week, before taking the train back to Toronto the next week and crossing Canada at a luxurious and lazy pace whilst seeing parts of it - the northern route - that I haven't seen on my original voyage. That will be fun I can tell you and quite romantic too. Patty and Eli will be picking us up from Schiphol - big thanks for that - and then it is back to normal life again. Now that really feels strange.............. Goodbye to you all. For those of you interested in the czech youngsters: http://www.canada2007.estranky.cz/fotoalbum/fotky-z-cest/momentky-ze-vsedniho-dne___ which is their own blog on the canada experience.

When I asked the lady in the bicycle shop in Grand Forks what the stage to Osoyoos was like, I mean those are the people who know what they are talking about, she replied with just that little bit of a smile on her lips that it is a bit of a grind. Now my english is not that good, but my understanding of human nature is so I expected some hard working on my way there. I was not disappointed, the climb out of Grand Forks was too long and steep and I had to walk it a part of the way and further on I had to walk again. Well you also have seen the picture of me on the flanks of the mountain and Osoyoos down below, so you know what I am talking about.

However leaving Osoyoos the day before yesterday I suddenly realized that there were a lot of marks on the road and texts that were supposed to support people. And then remembered that in the weekend that I arrived there on that same Sunday, the Penticton triathlon was held, the main north american selection one for the Ironman triathlon in Hawaii. Figure that, I must have missed the athletes on that particular day by a mere couple of hours. Now I am sweating and puffing to get up this mountain and had to walk, but these people were doing at that point their 180 km cycling stage after having swam 4,5 km and then afterwards will complete the whole thing by running a marathon. Jesus on a horse, that is in Canada and particularly around these parts where you will not find a piece of flat surface for miles, a hell of a performance. OK, I do not exactly know how things are around Penticton but doing my stretch to Keremeos, I encountered a very hilly road and that is where they were biking. The only thing that bothered me was the high number of left water and gatorade bottles, the discarded food packages and other shit. One should have the decency I feel to clean that up after the event. But who am I?

Going over into Keremeos I am seeing this strange band of red (see picture) on the side of the mountain and have still not figured out if this is artificial - and if yes, why then there - or not and what natural phenomenon we are looking at. That whole valley by the way is even bigger and more filled with orchards and for miles the road side is filled with stands where you can buy any fruit and vegetables you like. In the motel I was greeted and signed in by a lady who after 2 words from my side, said you are from Holland! Seems that she herself had left Friesland 26 years ago and of course recognized still my accent.

Had a very long and sad talk with Glenda in front of the motel at the benches when she told me all of the mishaps - abuse, murder of her love, crack usage of a son, being disabled herself - and still see a woman with enough energy to make something of her life despite all the setbacks.

The poster in the window inviting people to come to the Similkameen Sizzle with the hottest chili, sounded very interesting. Especially because on the way into the village, there was this sign alongside the road stating that this farm produces the hottest peppers in the world!!!! It is that my stomage is still upset and I have to be very careful what I eat (or I start to vomit actually) otherwise I would have loved to try it out. After all I am something of a connaisseur you know.

Fruit picking is a job done by young vagabonds/ students or mexican hired ones, but it is obviously tiring work as you can judge by the picture of the sleeping couple. Her feet are really dirty and I wonder if she always walks around without shoes. I did so myself as well when living on the houseboat with Mart at least most of the times at home that is.

Progressed into Princeton today having cycled through rain and damned cold weather and will stay here for an extra day, because they stage a Fall Fair this weekend and I want to see what that is all about. On my way in I passed Wolf Creek for a couple of miles on the water was of that emerald quality that is so endearing.

Hmm, am still in Osoyoos, not that I awfully mind, it is very agreeable here and I am not very pressed, being only 400 km away from Vancouver, but the reason for my prolonged stay is not so good. I have cought something nasty and are not able to contain food. It litererally flows out of me without hindrance and I have not eaten anything solid for 2 days.. This morning I could for the first time hold unto food, so perhaps I am on the mend. Spend the last days and weekend apart from that in relaxed bliss. Feyenoord leading the league, so good to see and follow that, going out with the 4 Czechs Saturday evening and having a nice night in the pub. Me doing most of the talking though..

Listening to the neighbours, 3 american couples touring the country side on customised Harleys and having lots to talk and laugh about intermingled with lots of fuck this and that. But at the same time being very friendly to a father who is showing his young kids the motors and they do everything to please the parents and put the children on the bikes. Talking to the owners of the motel who have sold the place to a developer who will put a co-owned hotel there. The osoyoos area is slowly becoming the most wanted holiday destination in BC, with its shallow warm lake, the incredible sunny environment, the skiing resort just around the corner, the desert area and air, the smart operating  and vision of the chief of the Osoyoos Indian band who wants his people to have a sound future. All of that and more, because the orchards and wineries were already here and the restaurants and retirement homes are being constructed already. Lots of scenery around as well, so a short drive will take you to other interesting places and as I wrote before, these people organise a lot of activities, so there is enough to do and visit.

Had a tale of a couple from Germany who were touring Canada on cycle as well, but doing so as a tour around the world. He being 74 and she 58. They had done as much as Eastern Europe, Asia, Australia, Latin America and the USA and were now on their way to Europe again. Now that is a journey to talk about not the pitiful 7500 that I will be doing.....

Stranger things happen here than what meets the eye at first glance. The motel owner in Midway told me a couple of them. The one about the black bear mother with her 3 cubs - which is very extraordinary, because a bear mama just has 2 teats, so normally she will have 2 kids only - who stayed a couple of days in thee orchard across the road and then took off into the mountains again, after having had a feast on the fruit of then trees. She was not chased away, because she only ate the fruit that was lying on the ground. The smallest cub - the runt - was picked up everytime he ambled behind, so the whole journey to the top of the mountain took longer than usual. lots of people watched that passage and would have loved to see it too.

Their is a bird species killed killdeer, who builts nests on the ground. If a predator comes close it will walk away dragging one wing on the ground, as if it injured. When the predator then closes in, it will take off into the air quickly having lead the the offender away from the nest. The local people will put a ring of stones around the nest when they find one, to warn the farmers who are gouing to plough the ground that one is near to a nest. Reminds me of our practice with kievitsnesten.

Sitting in front of my motel room - I am always on the ground floor because of cycle and chariot - my neighbours come back from a cycling trip. I start to talk to him in forst instance as she is directly going into their room. Janos is from Poland - Lotz - and works in Victoria as a diver. He fishes for sea cucumbers and other delicacies 6 months a year. The rest he is free to do what he wants, because he made enough money during that period. He rapidly went back to collect a wodka bottle to join me in drinking and in the end became very moody and sad. So sad to see a strong and reliable man turn to mush, because of live's turns and twists. His wife Eslbietha picked him up later and gave me a very apologetic look. Later on she joined me and we had a lengthy talk on Janos's behaviour, their marriage problems, alcohol abuse, being in Canada with a restricted knowledge of the english language. I tried to console her as good as I could, but I think it was a failure. Later that evening she stopped by again and we had a stroll along the beach. His snoring was loud and irritating even to me at that point. The next morning they both tried to evade my eyes and presence as much as possible. I hope they solve their marriage problems.

Martina is in Osoyoos with her friend Pete, Katka with Peter and I met all of them when they were playing beach volleyball in the sea. I quickly joined them after an opening remark on the game and learned that theyt are all from the Czech republic, students at the university of Praha - 3 economics and 1 journalism - have been working at the motel for 2,5 months and in a local restaurant in the evening hours and will travel Canada for the remainder of the time. Told them about myself, the trip and life in the Netherlands and had a discussion on food, eating patterns, science fiction, sports and whatever and had a very amusing time on the beach. Lovely young intelligent and friendly people, one do you want more? Well I have an answer to that as well, but as they have my blog adress now and are reading it ( so the comments show ) I will be careful with my causal and casual remarks on beuaty and so on.......

Visited the NK'MIP desert centre today. Pronounced as Ink-a-meep it is a very good example of an indian / first nation tribe who are doing well for themselves. Good chief in place who saw that the saving of his people lies in setting up good businesses like the desert centre, which is next to a spa / hotel/ winery and they are thinking about other expansions. They are doing very fine and as a result look healthy, self assured and proud. Something that is rare in Canada I can tell you. Looking at the desert or - bushy grass steppe as it is oficially called - the slowly rolling sand dunes with low bushes of sage, trees and mountians in the background I was overwhelmed again by the beauty of the country side. Having a lot of small sings pointing out the plants in the environment and explaining what was used for what, gave an excellent idea about aboriginal life.

Waking up the day before yesterday from a vey loud bang sound. My heart was in my throat because it was a very loud noise. Sounded like a gun shot - and for a moment there I was afraid that something awful had happened in the room next to me with the polish couple - and I quickly checked my surroundings. No panick ensued elsewhere and everything stayed quiet. It was early morning. So I went to sleep again being very baffled by it all. Now you remembered that I wrote that going down into tow, I had a flat tire. I fixed that of course and pumped it up to see if my fixing was done properly. That tire exploded!!!!!! See the ictur for yourself. I must have pumped it up too much and the combination with the rising temperature in my room must have driven it beyond the baring point. Stupid job Marc. L:uckily I have spare tires.

 

Anarchist mountain is at an elevation of more than 1400 meters - http://www.trailpeak.com/index.jsp?cat=bike-mt&con=trail&val=815 - a real bitchy climb I can tell you, whether you do it from the east or the west. Although I did have the idea that the west climb is just that bit steeper, because going down was a rollercoaster, 10 km of hairpincurves, decline rates of more than 8% and I managed to puncture one of my chariot tires along the descent. Scary ride in all, but also big fun. I am stronger than I thought, you know climbing these heights with that weight behind me. I also curse and mutter a lot when things get very tough and at times I have to walk, because the road is too steep. Cardrivers at those times are either very supportive and hoot or give me friendly thumps up or cynical and shout things like: too difficult for you or it gets even steeper further on. Well it keeps me busy, shall we leave it at that?

The guys with the earth drill in Grand Forks, were doing research of the ground conditions, because the centre of town was going to be revitalised, with a new museum, a new town hall and one section of the centre made car free, so that the streets can be used for public manifestations and the saturday market. Funny what info you can get by just standing and looking at people at work with some interest. Canadians like to talk and exchange friendliness, lovely people! Whilst walking through the town I also visited the local art galley, where they had an exhibition of photo's of one of the most beautiful and well known gardens in BC. I never heard of it, but everybody assured me that it was certainly an impressive one, erected by local people on their own property. The photo's certainly caught the atmosphere and biodiversity of the place.

On my way into Midway I came across a strange part of a tunnel, just there alongside of the road, leading to nothing. Small as well, so I assume that it was actually a train tunnel in the old days, although I could not figure out where the tracks orifinally were and were going to. These parts of Canada have their own busy history, gold rush, mines in the area, coal pits so one can always find traces of former activities. And if not the local museum will have tales about it.

Coming on top of Anarchist mountain and looking down at Osoyoos is a smashing view, I was literally shouting of excitement. The other people at the viewpoint were getting nervous from that, but he, with that kind of view down below after 4 hours of heavy climbing. One lady eventually offered to take a picture of me with the view on the background. On my way to Osoyoos I came across some statues of animals at the beginning of the sideroads that had the names of these animals. At one you see - also in the picture - a apeman like statue, not the YETI, but the Sasquatch.Apparently the local version of the bigfoot creature. Why do they always look so furtive and paranoic?

The region is very special. You have a lake, a desert, sandy beaches, wineries, orchards and a czech cleaning lady called Martina who is absolutely lovely and good looking. But over here with her boy friend - rrrrrhhhhh- so not much chance there, but boy it sure as hell made my heart go beat a bit faster talking to her........I will be staying here for a bit. Some swimming, some dining, doing some nature exploration and tracking around a enjoy myself with whatever comes to hand. School is starting next week, so most families will leave soon, so only the interesting folks will remain.

Next time some stories I heard along the way!

I am on the top of the world and looking down at creation..... so starts the Carpenter song if I am correct. Well standing at the summit of Paulson's pass at 1550 meters altitude and looking around after a gruesome 4,5 hours climbing I really was on top of it. The vista was awe inspiring, see the pictures for yerselves mateys, and the ride down into the valley on 2 lane highway with big trucks behind me and going at 70 km an hour very inspiring as well. Feels like the Tour de France guys when they descend in the Alps or Pyrennees, at least the one where the roads are very slowly winding so you do not have to use your breaks at all. Exhilariating stuuf. Had to stay in Nelson for a couple of days more, because heavy rain and thunderstorms were predicted and that I do not want to on my trip. All Canada has been hit the last weeks by atrocious weather, as have some of the US states. Big floods, hailstormes with really large stones - about as big as a basketball - I saw a car hit so hard it was ready for the scrapmetal yard. Forest fires at the same time although I haven't seen in the flesh so to say, but one can smell it in the air constantly. Stayed the night over in Castlegar and had a very bad night with both feet constantly in cramps, god knows why. OK the matrass was old and bumpy, but after my extended rest period I expected the body be able to cope with minor shit like that. So riding out of town I was confronted with a 8% slope after 10 minutes and had to walk to crest it. With a 100 km trip in front of me and a very long 40 km climb to Paulson's pass, well I tell you that put the scare in me. And no alternative resting place in between. I arrived in Grand Forks after 8 hours and I was completely exhausted. Today I will give my body the time to recuperate. Yet I am also quite proud of myself, even with a body that virtually had no strength (that is how it felt at the start) lots of cramp attacks during the day, the long hours and unexpected climbs at some points - you think you have had it and then a new slope arrives - the wind in the face but not too forceful thank god, I made it. Good boy, good boy! Was actually very lucky to have a room in Grand Forks because there is a big BMX tournament in the weekend here. It is incredible what these people organise to amuse themselves. So Patty, no it is not only small places with hardly history at all or one that does not go back more than 150 years, but they have a very lively feel to them, very open and friendly people, good and affordable housing and room for private initiative. Organic food is plenty and people really like outdoor sports. My kind of environment to be honest. And why did you have to bring up my work...???? this is also the country of the Doukhorovs, a russian emigrant community that had to flee russia at the end of teh 19th century for their pacifist beliefs. Hard working and honest people, that made the valleys around here very rewarding in their crop results. Well if you do not fight and are not involved in conflicts and war, you tend to have more time and people to work the land and make it all fruitful.. Literally in their case because they started to grow fruits here in earnest and the region is now one of the biggest producers of fruits. Many russian names as well on houses and farms. Funny to see those.

Ha, I have been able to update my pictures now, so that is some progress, I simply cannot use the ipod for it as I normally do, but with the USB-reader things go ok. I will have to restrict myself though, because I only get half an hour here as so many people want to have internet-access. So managed to get in Nelson and some things are happening here, so I ewill stick arounf for a couple of days. What's brewing here: - lots of young folk here with rasta hair, alternative clothes, live music on the streetwalk, beggars, colourful make up and and tattoo's and piercings - lots of forest fires around the town, so the air feels and tastes smokey, not really good and you can see the very red sun in the picture - a couple of music festivals are staged in the valleys around here and most of the bars have some live act in the eveneing - lot of shops with astrology, mystic encounters, spiritual stuff in them and the town has this 'something' different feeling about it; discussing it with a couple of people they couldn't give me another explanation then there is an art school around here.. well ok if thta's the reason - many good looking girls as well walking around and I managed to catch a glance or two at me; yeahhhhhhh - fire fighters are coming into town in the weekend for some R&R, look forward to talk to them - managed to buy the newest Steven Erikson's novel in the Malazan of the fallen series; I AM GOING TO ENJOY READING THIS SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! - the choice in restaurants is very good, already had a very good indian meal and I am getting to be a connaisseur of Mulligatawny soup, I even can make a pretty good top 100 list of them. mjam mjam mjam - tonight it is going to be mexican and will top it off with a visit to one of the acts - funny I am sleeping in a room meant for handicapped people, so place enough for my bike and chariot; only the extras in the bathroom are a bit strange:) By the way having a sort of unoffifcial short holiday here makes me a bit nervous, can I do this, am I not letting my proogress slip, shouldn't I be cycling again???? Then I think oh for pete's sake stop being so stupid you dolt and enjoy what you encounter. Takes a while to get the gung ho mentality out of my system. I also use too much alcohol when trying to relax and am a bit ashamed to say that in Creston in managed to fall alseep in my motel room with all lights blazing, door wide open - why in heavens name did I do that???? - and fully clothed of course. Couldn't figure out what had happened the past 3 hours, so quicly shut the door and went to bed normally. Luckily the motel room did look out on a back alley, so no one has seen my sorry state and embarassment. Waiting for the ferry at Kootenay - which is called Osprey 2000 - was looking at birds circling the harbor. First one and in the end 4 large birds were cicrcling and gliding above us. A guy told me that they are ospreys - www.pbase.com/jypsee/osprey and so the ferry was not called like that in vain. Have of course made pictures of them, but on my photographs you just see small specks. So hence the link to the page. For Ingrid and Aragon, I talked to an agency in Creston who provide labor services to people and companies, and they told me that a good cherry picker can earn up to 1000 CAD per day, but then you will have to make long hours and be very good at it. Anyone willing to work they said is wellcome and I will give the contact details to you once I am back. Helicopters are multi-purpose craft around here; I have seen them busy with forest fire extinguishing, sick transport, heavy duty transport, traffic control. But also with a torpedo under them who obviously was doing a grid search and tracking down mineral deposits in the mountains. Who for? Nobody could tell me, could be government, mining industries, local contractors. Anyway once they find something in your property below the 2 meter surface line, government has the right to give out a mining permit to interested parties and you can do nothing about it. Helicopters also hunt for illegal marihuana groweries, apparently a problem around here. Furtile land, enough moisture, sunshine and lots of hidden or out of the way places around.

Well after my last contribution, I thought things couldn't get more beautiful and impressive, but cycling along the lake side I must say that I almost tumble of my bike when looking at the scenery. STUNNING, STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL. Incredible, it is one vista after the other and the place is really crawling with swiss and bavarian settlers, which I can deduct from the name of the farms and the the families. The lake itself - I am once again in a library that does not allow uploading - reflects the mountains on both sides and all along its length (120 km) there are small beaches either pebble or sand oneswhere people are relaxing or canooing or doing something else. The cycling is difficult because one goes up and down constantly and I climb more in 1 day than the previous weeks. Stayed the night over in Kootenay Bay in a swiss motel and had a very good meal of creamy riesling soup - that one I am going to make at home as well - and a bison meat calzone pizza. Had a very lenghty and informative and funny talk with Raymond and Pete, 2 guys working at the local power plant, who gave me a lot of good travel tips for the coming weeks. Both are from BC so they knew what they are talking about and especially now with the prospect of reaching the coast quite soon and way before the scheduled time, I will have to figure out how to fill those days with relevant activities. Strange that, for months I have had this urge to go, go, go and make as much klicks as I could. Now I am looking at the attitude of how to do nice things and amuse myself a bit more. Is going to be harder than it sounds as my personality tends to bend towards the tough way, no pain no gain..... Victoria island will be my next goal though. I want to see the orca's and the redwood trees - more than 100 meters high - and eat freshly cought crabs and fish, see old island culture and do some relaxing at the beach before the weather gets worse. Sounds like absolute easygoing days and that is what it is going to be!! I deserved it, I think.

For everyone who over the past weeks has been supporting me with writing a reaction on my blog, a big big big thank you!! It helps in times of trouble and pain and exhaustion to have something to look forward to. Reading your messages has been fun and inspiring at times, but always welcome and warming my heart.

And now for something completely different. I AM IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND I DEFINITELY LOVE IT. It is almost as if I am cycling in Switzerland, although I have never been there at all, but you know, from pictures and tv one does get some impressions how it looks like. 4 Days ago I left Lethbridge and hit the prairies leading up to the mountains. Beuatiful country side,  although I did see tsrange things there, like fields with a small crop (potatoes, strawberries, peas...) but very symmetrically placed in the field, small tent-like things. Every 25 meter an ornage tent, too small for a person to lay down in, but big enough for someone to sit in. next I saw a couple of birds of prey alongside of the road, the male quickly taking off when I neared, but the other one sitting there and looking at ease until I was within touching distanmce. Then suddenly with a big screech the bird sprung up and launched itself. I couldn't get my camera out quickly enough, too bad. Beautiful look at me from those hard blue eyes.

Then onwards to Pincher Creek, finding a motel but no open restaurant, because it was Heritage Celebration Day in Canada and almost everything was closed. Then onwards again to the rockies which I now could see looming ahead of me. Based on advice from other people on the road I headed for Crowsnest Pass www.crowsnestpass.com , this being the easiest way across the mountains. Well the combination of the wind, the climbing and sometimes bad road, left me quite winded. I was mightily glad to reach my foreseen destination - Blairmore at 1150 meters altitude smack in the middle of the mountains. Passed Franks' slide, where in 1903 30 million tonnes of rock dropped down from the mountain www3.sympatico.ca/goweezer/canada/frank.htm , obliterating the mining village almost completely. Fascinating view, especially because the road runs through the pile of rock and dirt and you can look at the mountain, now completely barren. In the local motel where I wrote the Lethbridge stories at the Inn's computer, later that evening had a very nice conversation with Frank a salesman travelling across Canada, giving me very good tips on how and what. Josh the barman and Cath who took care of the food were very funny and talkative. Good evening after a day of very hard work. The next day climbing even more, until I reached the border of the pass where you pass into in British Columbia and suddenly it is downhill mostly. There is still a lot of coal mining going on in the region, so lots of traffic as well. Colder too and getting into BC the temperature had dropped noticeably. I am in the mid 20's now.

So there am I cycling through stunning, amazing and awe inspiring valleys. Huge fucking mountains at the left and right, although the ones on the left tend to be more green and grown with trees, the righthand ones barren and rocky. Spotting a lake that is an impossible translucent emerald green in color, see a fishing eagle or bird of prey trying to catch a trout. It take it easy now, I know I will be in Vancouver on time, Mart will join me on the 16th there, and everywhere I look, I see trees, lakes, mountains, springs and creeks. I am soaring in my heart, the air is so clean, apart from the moments another cattle truck is roaring by and the smell puts me on my feet again...Meeting other people on cycles, the 3 polish students doing the rockies only for a month. The vancouverians going from there to Calgary and surprisingly donating a bottle of their Gatorade sportdrinks, because they have a car that accompanies the group and “they have enough of the stuff anyway, you brave dutchmen” and then start to make pictures of me. The 2 ladies and a man who bike cross country as much as possible from Calgary to New Mexico, calling it the great divide-ride. And otherones who just wave to me and we wish each other good luck. I am the only one going east to west though~:)

Decided that to day I will stay in Cranbrook, after having spend the night the day before yesterday in Fernie, one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. Located in a valley with impossible high mountains at every side of it, it is a physical exercise paradise. Climbing, trailing, biking, ATB-ing, skiing, langlauf, triathlon, you name it and they organise it there. Town has about 4500 inhabitants, but you would think that it has triple that amount with all the activities going on. You want a job there, no problemo amigo, they are crying for people who want to work. At that point my camera stopped funtioning, empty battery and shit shit shit, I couln't get it to reload. Figured out today that the voltage setting on the reloader had been moved, so I got it to work, thank god, but have missed the opportunity to make pictures of some views that are so stunning. Too f*cking bad that. This place by the way promotes itself as a partneaire of the 2008 Winter Olympics, have to check out why so. I am curious you know. Did my laundry today and had a lenghty talk with a trucker doing his, funny how I seem to make contact more easy lately.

Funny thing happened this morning, did some shopping in a small store - bread, ham, water, sportsdrink - and was talking to the owner about the weather forecast being off the mark, when he suddenly asked if I was the guy who is crossing canada on a bicycle. On my yes - what else could I say - he suddenly grapped a 5 dollar note out of the cash register and said you deserve a rebate for your troubles. And stuffed it in my breast pocket without a further ado. I will donate the amount to a good cause, because what did I deserve that for you know.

Story 1: walking through the town in the weekend where the big air show takes place, would in normal circumstances make the city vibrant. That at least would happen in my country, I think. You stage something special, that attracts 40.000 visitors, you get more people in the streets. Well on all 3 days Friday-Saturday-Sunday I could have fired a canon in the streets I was walking through, without being accused later of emulating a murdering maniac. Strange that was. Was I in the wrong streets, were people hiding, was there a secret meeting going on outside of my view. I can tell you that I crossed in those 3 days many streets, but it was utterly empty. With all the motels and hotels booked until the last room, wher did they go? Apart from the 2 overweight couples who were having a lot of fun in the swimming pool on Sunday and the ladies doing their utmost to get me talking to them. But I had a SF novel in my hands, so bad luck ladies!!

Story 2: Went for a lengthy walk on Sunday, following a nature trail in the vicinity of lethbridge and saw some of the most beautiful birds in my life. very colourful, bright dashing and very contrasting to the environment. but too fast to be photographed. Too bad, would have liked to show you those. I think one of them was a hummingbird, so tiny it was. Saw 2 young girls in rubber bands, slowly floating down the river, that looked so relaxed that I got a bit jealous about it. Lots of couples biking or skating on the very well maintained tracks. That did not make me envious. All in all Canadian cities do a lot to give their habitants a good opportunity to go into nature and do something healthy, which they should because otherwise they would never leave their cars. Picknip tables with a small fixed barbecue next to it! That is what I call complete service.

Story 3: Going to the japanes garden on saturday in Henderson park. On the way to it passing City hall with al of its monuments to commemorate the people who form the basis of the city. Italians, Hungarians, Chinese, Japanese, Germans ( WW2 captives of whom a fair number decided to stay in Canada after the war - do not mention the war....::)) all with their own impressive or not, sculpture. No dutch although, but they built the irrigation system around the neighbourhood ensuring a part of the prosperity. The japanese park itself was quite nice, but the playing kids in the swimming pool close to it, did interrupt the so called tranquility a bit too much.

Story 4: Where Medicine Hat is Groningen - the gas city, complete with museum - Lethbridge is Heerlen. The coal city. Also here the last mine was closed in the early 70's because the coal was too expensive to dig up, compared to the imports from the US. they did a neat job to preserve a least a large part of the history with a walking route on top of the hill with palquettes with text and photo's to explain what one is looking at. I also looked at one picture where they showed what the actual devastating form was of the dust storms they had in 30's, due to the drought period combined with the wrong method of maintaining / plowing the ground. The picture shows a dust wall of 30 meters high if not more over a length of several kilometers.

Story 5: Lethbridge had a mayor for 24 years. Mayor Andy who guided them through some of the most difficult years and ensured that the city with the loss of the mine industry had a reason to exist and prosper. Some of our local burgemeisters could take a real example from this guy. Bloody CDA mentality, the so-called shopkeeper attitude is so utterly boring. No vision, no spunk, no future.

Well my friends, what I almost forgot to tell you is that on the way into Lethbridge from Taber I had a couple of very funny encouters with dutch-related people. First there was this van with Volker - Stevin road construction employees waiting at a crossing near a gas station. When I confronted them with the fact that they are working for a - originally - dutch company, they reacted a bit surprised. One however knew that the full name is Volker - Wessels - Stevin. On my question whether they had any idea who Stevin was, they remained silent. Had then to explain of course. Hardly a minute later, once I had bought a coke in the shop - I am really getting addicted to the stuff, yuk, - a woman stepped up to me asking if I was the one with the cycle. On my positive answer she started to smile and replied, you are dutch! I said well if you recognise that, where do you come from. It seemed I was talking to Titi (that it how it sounded to me, but frisians will no doubt correct me) from leeuwarden, who had emigrated with her husband to Hamilton. Had a lengthy conversation with her and him - forgot his name actually, but he was managing the kids and taking pictures of us, which I will receive by email - and it really started to be funny when it seemed that her best friend in Hamilton comes from Simpelveld, which of course is really a stone's throw away from my birth place. Got a big departing hug from Titi, which surpised me but felt very good.

Next I settle in Lethbridge, go to the library to look at my email and do some maintenance on my blog, when one of the librarians at the desk asks if I want to meet Francine. Because she is from Holland you see. So I had a talk with Francine from Barneveld, who met this canadian soldier, got married and followed him of to Alberta to set up a farm. Her husband died a couple of years ago, but she still has her work and visits the family across the ocean once a year.

To top it off, walking back to the motel I suddenly see the sign on a shop window, close to the motel, called The Wooden Shoe. I of course have to step inside to see what that means. Well the blackboard sign outside already mentioned that they had Honig Kippesoep on offer and the whole shop was filled with Dutch goods. From the ubiquitous kroketten and frikandellen, to hagelslag, stroopwafels and whatever you think dutchies abroad really want to have. Yes, the Unox rookworst as well.  But what gave me the msot pleasure was this wall filled with jars with drop (licquorice) and I of course couldn't control myself and went to buy a pound of double salts and salt fishes. MMMMMMMMMMMMM, am I going to enjoy that the coming days. The couple running the shop, once I started talking to them, gave me some good tips on how to cross the Rockies and as a parting gift a Maple Leaf pin to clip on my clothes.  Good people.

Well leaving Medicine Hat and HW 1 to get away from the heavy traffic and noise, I took the 3 southward bound. Much nicer and quieter, the occasional heavy truck or pickup making noises, but that's mostly it. Large amounts of RV vehicules though, strangely enough going both ways, so where are these people going to one wonders. Coming back or going to on holiday no doubt, or is everybody coming back or leaving but just in the opposite direction? That is the sort of question I have while continously paddling away at the side of the road. Good roads mostly, with strong and wide shoulders that protect me.  I didn't tell you about the 13 I took to Maple Creek and the utter amazement to suddenly see the tarmac change into gravel for kilometers and then into tarmac again and the gravel again. This is one of the main provincial roads and you get gravel. Apart from the extra effort it took to cross it, it was such a strange experience I didn't even have the energy to curse the bloody government responsible for this. People had warned me that especially Saskatchewan had bad roads, but to be confronted with it in such a way...Well let's hope that this is just a one-time experience.

On the road to Medicine Hat I noticed a couple of things that struck me as odd or noteworthy:

• a couple of the oil pumps in the fields were not moving; later I learned that farmers sometimes decide to slow down the pumping up of oil, because that is just capital in the ground which could be more value later on
• freight trains are more common then I thought, every 1-2 hours you hear or see one coming along and they are very long and impressive; the standard lenght is something like 1,5 km. Must cause infrastructural issues I assume in the up - or downloading towns.
• Fields are very dry suddenly and a lot of them are constantly irrigated or sprinkled by huge construction. water must be near and in plentiful quantities otherwise they wouyld not be able to do this. I have come across irrigation channels in South Alberta mentioning a network of 350 km of length. Have to read up on that project interesting stuff to read no doubt.
• a lot of 40's 50's restored cars suddenly on the road and what really strikes me is that they have such splendid colors like pink, yellow, lime green you know. In combination with all that chrome and the gliding way they move it is fantatstic to look at. Most wave back if I give them the thumps up gesture.
• Also a lot of hot rod cars, like those from ZZ Top. Awfully deep roaring sound to them, but yeh we are very near the border to the states.
• Well when the mayor of Medicine Hat ordered to drill for gas - MH is called the gas city not for nothing - they at first wanted to stop at 1000 feet. He pushed on and the found it at 1030 feet, he came running out of his house with his breeches flapping ta his anlkes, so happy he was!!

On arrival in Lethbridge I read that there was to be an air show during the weekend of the Snowgeese, the national air stunt team of the Air Force. strange thta they would choose a name like that for them. the yanks call theirs the eagles or something like that, so that gives you a nice idea about the difference in attitude. Most Canadians when abroad, do their utmost to be recognised as canadians, so to get a fair treatment and not be confused with the yankees you know. Seems like a perfect idea to me. Took me some time to find a room with all the extra folk in town.

Did some walking around and visited the japanese garden at the edge of town. Nice and peaceful, although the sreaming kids in the swimming pool nearby did spoil the tranquility a bit. Temperature is still above 30, so I wonder how my foraging into the rest of Alberta is going to be, because I am looking at a very deep river valley next to the motel, really scary that. Well, we'll see, hopefully the wounds on my ass heal fast!!

 

Ponteix: T-Rex and Indian History country

When I biked into the town, I was greated along Highway 13 by a huge dinosaur statue. Once settled in the motel, and again people being very friendly and supporting - Sharon the manager just did my laundry like that and I could park my bike and chariot in their garage - I was looking at the weather forecast and knew that I would have to stay for 2 days, because the forecast for the early morning next day was heavy thunderstorms. No way jose, I am going to be caught in shit like that. I had seen on the weather channel the damage done by the heavy hail showers in Regina earlier that week and this is what they said would hit Ponteix as well. I am currently in Cypress Hills region, quite hilly and temps are in the 35-40 C in the afternoon, how lovely that is..! So I rested a bit, did some reading and tv. The next day I went to the local museum, where I was guided around by gabrielle, a history student who stayed at her grandparents house and earned her holiday money by redecorating the museum. I have never seen such a large collection of aroowheads and other hunting tools. Apparently the region around Ponteix used to be place where Indians would hunt the bison herds that used to forage in the hills. A local farmer started to collect the multitude of arrows and handaxes he found in the wee hours ( there is not much to do in the winterseason) and actually became a famous collector and researcher for early civilisation toolcraft. I was also shown in the backyard the use of an atlatl, a throwing spear that will go much further then the usual one. Proof has been found that this technique wa used by indians as well. The region is in fact the only part of central canada that was never covered by the ice ages - too high - and thus has a very different topography and flora and fauna. That evening I met her and Laurence - another work student - in the local restaurant/bar and had a lenghty discussion on student life in Canada versus Holland. When they visit my country they are welcoem to a stay at my place and a beer, because they were extremely friendly and funny. Especially Laurence, more so when she found out that I could epress myself in french as well, her being a civic planner student from Quebec.

Shaunavon: nothing much to comment upon. Small friendly place. The only thing that was funny, was that the motel was run by a south korean lady, who joined me at breakast with ther sister. her sister was in dire need of a husband I guess, because they were very curious about my family life and whether I was planning to stay in Canada. They were good looking both of them - Betty and Joanne - although I assume that their korean names are a bit different. They both sighed in the same funny way, when commenting on my endeavours and hardship.

Tompkins: a reroute on Highway 1, because that is the most straightforward way into Alberta. From Shaunavon to Gull Lake was very easy, but once on 1 the wind turned and I had to fight really hard to be able to progress. Mind you it is still very hilly country, which I would love to show you with pictures, but the library does not allow up- or downloading. Slept in a very low key hotel, heated my own food and had a drink in the bar because the tv in my room was not really pleasurable to look at.

Maple Creek: well it's weekend, so I will stay over a bit here was my first thought. 2 Museums and a lot of other stuff to look at said the guide. Apart from that I was really knackered when I rode into town. 6,5 hours fighting the wind is not funny and I was dead. Crashed into my room, just had the energy to heat up some noodles, slept a bit and went out late for some real food. I am keeping myself alive on the road by the way with lovely juicy peaches, that are being sold alongside of the road. Also the cherries are really good, dark red and full of juice. Love it!!! The next day I visited the historical museum and was glad that I did, because the collection of paintings by Charles Russell is really awesome. He is so capable of capturing the speed, power, energy and vitality of cowboy existence, it is a pleasure to watch them. http://www.jaspercentre.ca/0000pg.asp/ID/3344/SID/120 That they at the same time look like covers of western paperbacks is not interesting to me! In the evening I had a very satisfying steak and fries in the restaurant across the street. They know how a steak should be like. The daughter of the owner upon hearing my travel plans and stories, commented that I should write a book about it, she was moved by my stories. Well, who knows?

Irving: I am in Alberta. Yes, did it and just managed to escape the next heavy thunderstorm that hit the road 2 hours after I had passed the last hills of the Cypress Hill region. Damage to the crops I heard was quite extensive and some people's houses were damaged by dislodged trees or ruptured branches. Had a very pleasurable evening in the hotel bar, where Marv, Candida, Wanda (and yes she was a bit wicked ) and Lewis the owner provided for a very friendly, informative and funny company. Learned a lot about local farming, the area, rural family life and having several marriages in your life, the Canadian Pacific railway line, how to recognise a good pizza, the occurrence of the booming (oil)economy in Alberta and its effects on the region and other stuff that I do not even remember. I had a heavy head next morning, but as I knew that the distance to Medicine Hat was small, I didn't mind too much. Well the fun was the best part.

Medicine Hat: strange set up of the town. The historic part is in a river valley, so just outside the centre of town, the hills rise up quite dramatically. After that you get into suburbia and the malls and retail avenues, uninteresting.Mart's reaction on reaching the town was: where do I know the name from? And you know, I had exactly the same reaction. It is as if the name strikes a particular chord, a band called like that or some historic event that is in my memory. Anybody who can help us out with this, please do, cause it's frustrating to have that reaction and not know where it comes from. Stories and pictures will come later. Perhaps also the one, where I have raw open wounds now on both cheeks of my ass, or rather not? People are touchy about stuff like that you know.....Well it hurts like hell I can tell you. Bought  a second pair of cycling pants, hope that helps.